Taiwanese Tea: A Guide to Taiwan's Oolongs, Red (Black) Teas and Tea Regions

Alishan, Lishan, Dong Ding, Oriental Beauty, Jin Xuan: Taiwan's oolongs and teas, and how to brew them.

Taiwan is a small island with an outsized place in the tea world. It's best known for oolong: floral, creamy high mountain teas grown above about 1,000 m (Alishan, Shan Lin Xi, Lishan, Da Yu Ling); roasted classics like Dong Ding; the honeyed, insect-bitten Oriental Beauty; naturally creamy Jin Xuan (milk oolong); and lightly oxidized Baozhong. It also makes red tea (what the West calls black tea) around Sun Moon Lake and gave the world bubble tea. Taiwanese teas are usually carefully made, clearly labelled by mountain and season, and among the easiest high-quality teas to love.

The main Taiwanese teas#

TeaStyleTasteGuide
AlishanHigh mountain, lightSoft, buttery, lilacAlishan
Shan Lin XiHigh mountain, lightBright, green, bamboo and pineShan Lin Xi
LishanHigh mountain, lightSweet, fruity, thick, coolingLishan
Da Yu LingHigh mountain, lightVery clean, cooling, long finishDa Yu Ling
Dong DingRolled, roastedToasted nuts, caramel, baked fruitDong Ding
Oriental BeautyHeavily oxidized, unrolledHoney, muscat, ripe peachOriental Beauty
Jin Xuan (milk oolong)Rolled, lightCreamy, buttery, floralMilk oolong
GABA oolongSpecial processingBready, fruityGABA oolong
BaozhongVery lightly oxidized, twistedFresh, floral, close to green teaBaozhong
Sun Moon Lake red teaRed (black) teaMalt, honey, cinnamon, mint (Ruby 18)Sun Moon Lake
Si Ji ChunRolled, light, low altitudeStrongly floral, light, sweetSi Ji Chun
Gui FeiLeafhopper-bitten, rolled, lightly roastedHoney, ripe fruitGui Fei
Muzha TieguanyinRolled, roastedRoasted, warm, fruityMuzha Tieguanyin
Red oolongHeavily oxidized, rolled, roastedHoney, plum, dried fruitRed oolong
Sanxia Bi Luo ChunGreen teaFresh, grassy, lightly floralTaiwanese green tea

The full overview of oolong styles is in my Taiwanese oolong guide.

A short history#

Tea came to Taiwan with settlers from Fujian, across the strait. One well-known story traces the Dong Ding tradition to tea plants brought from Wuyi in the 19th century. Over the 20th century, Taiwan built its own identity: rolled oolongs, the high mountain gardens planted in the central mountains, bred cultivars like Jin Xuan, and a culture of tea competitions that pushed quality up. Taiwan was also where much of modern gongfu tea practice, with its pitchers and aroma cups, took shape in the 1970s and early 1980s.

Where it grows#

RegionKnown for
NantouDong Ding (Lugu), Shan Lin Xi, Sun Moon Lake red tea
ChiayiAlishan
Taichung / Hualien highlandsLishan, Da Yu Ling
Hsinchu, MiaoliOriental Beauty
New Taipei (Pinglin)Baozhong
Hualien, TaitungHoney-scented red tea, red oolong

Mountain by mountain, with elevations and the teas each area is known for: Taiwan tea regions.

How Taiwanese oolong is labelled#

A good Taiwanese tea label tells you:

  • Mountain or area: Alishan, Lishan, Lugu…
  • Cultivar: Qing Xin (the classic), Jin Xuan, Si Ji Chun and others.
  • Season: spring and winter harvests are the most prized.
  • Oxidation and roast: light, medium or heavy.

The more of this a seller tells you, the better. Be careful with famous mountain names: Lishan and Da Yu Ling are often used for tea from lower or neighbouring areas.

How to brew Taiwanese tea#

TeaLeaf / 100 mlWaterFirst steepSteeps
High mountain, Jin Xuan6 g80–90 °C, quick rinse10 s6–8
Dong Ding (roasted)6 g90–95 °C, quick rinse15 s8–10
Oriental Beauty4 g80–90 °C10 sUp to 10
Sun Moon Lake red2–4 g90–95 °C5–10 sAbout 7

Taiwanese oolongs are also among the best teas for cold brew: about 2 teaspoons per litre, 8–12 hours in the fridge. See cold brew tea.

Storage#

Light Taiwanese oolongs are fragile: airtight, dark and cool, ideally in the original vacuum pack, and drink them within about a year. Roasted Dong Ding keeps much longer and can improve with rest.

Bubble tea: Taiwan's other tea export#

Bubble tea was born in Taiwan in the 1980s and is now everywhere. Behind the tapioca pearls there's usually a red (black), green or oolong tea base. See what tea is in bubble tea.

My honest take#

If you're new to tea, Taiwan is one of the kindest places to start: floral, creamy, sweet oolongs that are hard to make bitter, sold by people who tell you exactly where and when they were picked. Start with an Alishan and a Dong Ding side by side.

The bottom line#

Taiwanese tea means oolong above all: floral high mountain teas, roasted Dong Ding, honeyed Oriental Beauty and creamy Jin Xuan, plus Sun Moon Lake red tea and bubble tea. Read the label for mountain, cultivar, season and roast, keep light oolongs fresh, and start with my Taiwanese oolong guide.

FAQ#

What is Taiwan known for in tea?#

Oolong, especially high mountain oolong, Dong Ding, Oriental Beauty and Jin Xuan.

What's the best Taiwanese tea for beginners?#

An Alishan high mountain oolong or a Jin Xuan.

Is Taiwanese tea the same as Chinese tea?#

It shares roots with Fujian's tea tradition but has developed its own styles, cultivars and standards.

Does Taiwan make black tea?#

Yes: red tea (hong cha, what the West calls black tea), most famously around Sun Moon Lake.

How should I store Taiwanese oolong?#

Light oolongs airtight, dark and cool, within about a year; roasted ones keep longer.

All taiwanese tea guides

Guide

Gui Fei Oolong: Taiwan's Honey-Scented Concubine Tea

Gui Fei (Concubine oolong) is a rolled, medium-oxidized, lightly roasted Taiwanese oolong made from leafhopper-bitten leaves in the Dong Ding area of Lugu, Nantou. It tastes of honey, ripe fruit and baked bread.

3 min read

Guide

Muzha Tieguanyin: Taipei's Roasted Iron Goddess

Muzha Tieguanyin is a roasted oolong from the Muzha and Maokong hills of Taipei, made from Tieguanyin bushes brought from Anxi in the late 19th century. Roasty, ripe-fruity and slightly tart, it keeps the old style Anxi largely left behind.

3 min read

Guide

Red Oolong: Taitung's Oolong That Tastes Like Black Tea

Red oolong (hong wulong) is a heavily oxidized, rolled and roasted oolong from Luye in Taitung, Taiwan. It sits between oolong and red (black) tea and tastes of honey, plum, dried fruit and a gentle roast.

3 min read

Guide

Taiwan Tea Regions: A Map of Where Taiwanese Tea Grows

A few regions make almost all of Taiwan's famous teas: the north for Baozhong and Muzha Tieguanyin, Hsinchu and Miaoli for Oriental Beauty, Nantou for Dong Ding and Sun Moon Lake, Chiayi for Alishan, Taichung's high mountains for Lishan and Da Yu Ling, and Taitung for red oolong.

4 min read

Guide

Lishan Oolong: The Pear Mountain Tea From Taiwan's Highlands

Lishan (梨山, "Pear Mountain") oolong is a Taiwanese high mountain tea grown mostly at roughly 1,800–2,200 m in the central highlands. It tastes of pear, stone fruit and flowers, with a thick, silky texture and a long, cooling finish, and it's one of the most often mislabelled teas.

3 min read

Guide

Shan Lin Xi Oolong: The Bright, Forest-Fresh High Mountain Tea

Shan Lin Xi (杉林溪, "Cedar Forest Stream") is a Taiwanese high mountain oolong from Nantou County, grown among forests and frequent mist. Brighter and greener than Alishan, it has fresh bamboo, pine and floral notes, a clean sweetness and a crisp finish.

2 min read

Guide

Alishan Oolong: Taiwan's Most Famous High Mountain Tea

Alishan oolong is a Taiwanese high mountain oolong from the Alishan range in Chiayi County, grown at roughly 1,000–1,500 m. Soft, buttery and floral, it's the most widely available and approachable of the high mountain teas.

3 min read

Guide

Dong Ding Oolong: Taiwan's Roasted Classic

Dong Ding (凍頂, Tung Ting) is Taiwan's classic roasted oolong from Lugu, Nantou: traditionally rolled, medium-oxidized and charcoal-roasted, with a warm, nutty, caramel-sweet cup. Greener, lightly roasted versions are common today.

5 min read

Guide

GABA Oolong: What It Is, How It's Made, and What It Can't Do

GABA oolong isn't a tea variety but a processing method: fresh leaves are kept without oxygen for several hours so they build up GABA, then usually made into roasted Taiwanese oolong. Good ones taste of baked bread and dried fruit; a cup contains only a few milligrams of GABA, so drink it for the taste.

4 min read

Guide

Milk Oolong: Natural Jin Xuan vs Flavoured "Nai Xiang"

"Milk oolong" is either Jin Xuan (金萱), a Taiwanese cultivar with a naturally soft, creamy note, or an oolong flavoured with a milk or cream essence, often labelled "Nai Xiang". The natural one stays gently creamy and floral across steeps; the flavoured one smells of milk candy and fades fast.

4 min read

Guide

Oriental Beauty: The Honey Oolong Made by Insects

Oriental Beauty (Dongfang Meiren, 東方美人) is a Taiwanese oolong from Hsinchu and Miaoli, made from young leaves bitten by the tea green leafhopper. Heavily oxidized, around 60–80%, it tastes naturally of honey, muscat grape and ripe stone fruit, with no bitterness.

5 min read

Guide

Taiwanese Oolong: High Mountain, Dong Ding, Oriental Beauty and More

Taiwanese oolong covers a wide range of teas, from lightly oxidized, floral high mountain teas (Alishan, Lishan, Shan Lin Xi) to roasted Dong Ding, honey-scented Oriental Beauty and Gui Fei, creamy Jin Xuan "milk oolong" and twisted, fragrant Baozhong. What they share is careful processing and a clean, sweet cup.

7 min read