Honest guides to pu-erh, oolong and the rest of Chinese tea: how to brew it, what it should taste like, and how to tell a good one from a pretty wrapper.
There's no single gongfu ratio, but the starting point is 3–7 g of tea per 100 ml of water (less for red tea and pu-erh, more for oolongs), boiling water for shou and dark teas and cooler water for green and delicate teas, and a first steep of 5–20 seconds, adding 5–20 seconds each round. The chart below adjusts that starting point for every type of Chinese tea.
Sheng (raw) pu-erh is pressed and left to ferment slowly over years or decades; shou (ripe) goes through a fast, controlled wet-pile fermentation that takes about 6–8 weeks. Sheng tastes bright, bitter-sweet and alive; shou tastes dark, smooth and earthy.
China's "Ten Famous Teas" (中国十大名茶) isn't one official list: different sources name different teas, around 17–18 names in all. The most widely quoted version lists West Lake Longjing, Dongting Bi Luo Chun, Huangshan Mao Feng, Lu An Gua Pian, Junshan Yinzhen, Xinyang Mao Jian, Wuyi rock tea (Da Hong Pao), Anxi Tieguanyin, Keemun and Lushan Yunwu.
To use a gaiwan, fill it only to where the rim starts to flare, hold the rim between your thumb and middle finger, rest your index finger on the lid knob, tilt the lid to leave a small gap, and pour everything out in one quick, confident motion. Keeping the water below the rim and pouring fast is what keeps your fingers cool.
To taste tea, check it in order: dry leaf, warmed leaf, liquor colour, then aroma, taste, texture and aftertaste, and finally the spent leaf, following the tea across several steeps. The fastest way to learn is to taste two teas side by side, brewed the same way, and write down what you notice.
Green, white and black tea all come from Camellia sinensis; processing makes the difference. Green is heated fresh, white is only withered and dried, and black tea, called red tea (hong cha) in China, is fully oxidized.
Purple pu-erh is sheng made from tea plants whose leaves turn purple through a natural mutation that raises anthocyanins: Zi Cha, Zi Ya and the Zi Juan cultivar.
Brew green tea with water at 75–85 °C, weighed leaf and short steeps: 3–5 g per 100 ml for 10–20 seconds in a gaiwan, or about 2–3 g per 250 ml for up to 1.5 minutes in a mug.
Mi Lan Xiang ("honey orchid") is the best-known Phoenix Dan Cong oolong: honey and orchid on the nose, a cool finish, and honey that comes from the cultivar and the roast, not insects.
Sencha is Japan's everyday green tea: grown in full sun, steamed, rolled into fine needles, grassy and savoury. Brew it at 70–80 °C for about a minute (20–30 seconds for deep-steamed fukamushi) and pour out every drop.
In China, tea is picked mostly from early spring to late autumn, often three or four times a year. Spring is the main season, with pre-Qingming (ming qian) green tea the most prized; autumn gives Gu Hua pu-erh and aromatic Tieguanyin.